London Diaries #2
Royal Naval College, Greenwich.
It has been over a month since we arrived in London and settled in to our new home at St Katherines Docks. It has been a busy time, visiting with friends and family, meeting new friends, a trip out of town to the New Forest, guests onboard.
After 6 months on the boat full time it was nice to be invited for a short break to the New Forest. We visited Tracy and Ray, relatives once removed, near Romsey, Hampshire. The New Forest was literally in their back yard and we took a short walk to see if we could spot any of the famous New Forest ponies.
Well that was easy, they were everywhere. Small and sturdy and roaming free. They obviously were not wild, used to posing for photos, they were undeterred by all the attention. The next day we went in to town and visited the city of Salisbury.
The city lies at the confluence of five rivers. The cathedral towers above all and the old city walls were visible, although slowly being incorporated into the surrounding buildings. These beautiful old buildings were made of brick, stone, and in some cases a combination with some flint thrown in for good measure.
The cathedral was spectacular from the outside.
Even more so when you learn building commenced in 1220 and was completed (admittedly without the spire) just 37 years later. The rapid build makes it unique in that it is all one architectural style, Early English Gothic design. The foundations for this massive building are just 4 feet deep and under the center of the Nave is a small hole where our guide poked a stick to demonstrate that just 3 feet down was at least a foot of water flowed under the building. No doubt from those five rivers that converge here. It is a wonder the whole edifice is still standing.
The ceiling reflected in a mirror pool. They were setting up a light show hence the yellow barricades and red tape.
In addition to finding a famous fellow sailor laid to rest here, we also found possibly the worlds oldest pendulum clock. It did not have a clock-face as we would expect, but instead it timed the bells that called the monks to prayer multiple times a day.
Salisbury Cathedral is also home to one of the four surviving copies of the Magna Carta, written in 1215. We could view the original, under special low light conditions, but photograhphy was forbidden. It was surprisingly small, written on a single piece of sheep hide parchment. In addition they had an annotated copy with selected important passages translated from the latin, still relevant and the basis of law today.
After a slap up meal it was time to head back to London and prepare the boat for a fun visit from Brent and Kianna.
Lights in London were turned on for Remebrance Day.
We walked and walked. One day we went down the south bank to Greenwich where we walked around the Royal Naval College, visited the Queens House gallery and hiked up the hill to the Observatory.
The Queens House, Royal Naval College and Canary Wharf in the distance.
Most importantly we recreated one of our wedding photos from over 30 years ago, and visited the church we were married in, St Alfege.
Another day we followed a treasure hunt, a gift from my sister, Justine. It lead us all around “The City”, by St Pauls, the Bank of England and Guildhall, through alleyways and by buildings you would never normally notice. It was a lot of fun.
St Paul’s Cathedral.
One of the more touching discoveries were these tiles in Postman’s Park.
We were lucky with the weather so one clear late afternoon we looked out over London from the 58th floor of Horizon 22 building.
The week sped by. A visit to the Hunterian museum at the Royal College of Surgeons and the incredible collection of pickled specimens and body parts. A night at the theater enjoying Hamilton (how ironic watching that in the UK).
The Christmas lights they brought over from US for us were put up, and just like that they left. What a fun week.
After they left the weather turned quite wintry. Unusually cold and blustery, we were told by the folk that have spent many winters here. We kept warm with our Dickinson diesel stove and a small space heater. The issue, however, when living on a boat in cool climes is the condensation. Having a well insulated boat is key, and we are covered on that score. The problem we found was the portlights and hatches, where bare metal is in contact with the outside elements. The solution was elegant. We have plastic film on most hatches, that acts like double glazing, stopping the warm air from reaching the cold metal surrounds. We also have sliding covers which offer a second layer of insulation. However this meant these hatches were all now essentially inoperable. We need ventilation in the galley at least. The rest of the boat is serviced with dorades to give air exchange.
We purchased greenhouse plastic construction panels and fabricated a cover for the galley hatch, held in place with magnetic tape, for easy install and removal when we want to open the hatch. The portlights each had a small box constructed from the same material that fit over the whole area and sealed up tightly against the wall.
We also made some curtains for the salon. These have not been needed prior to our stay here in London, anchoring out or staying in isolated marinas, we have not felt the need for the privacy. However we are in rather a fishbowl here, so curtains it was. They also help keep the salon warmer at night.
Another day out exploring the delights of London. This time we went to the National Portrait Gallery just off Trafalger Square.
There were many portraits, however the contemporary ones I found more interesting, especially when I recognized the subject.
A 3-D image of QEII
St Martins in the Fields was right next door and a free choral concert was about to start. What a treat.
Finally toward the end of November we had an Ocean Cruising Club 70th Anniversary celebration. It was very interesting meeting all these British sailors, a number were circumnavigators, and a number had visited the Caribbean. There was only one, Hilary, on Altarama of Dover, who we had met before while out sailing.
One evening we went to Wiltons Music Hall, the oldest remaining music hall in England. They had an evening of traditional Music Hall entertainment. The theater was rescued from demolition and refurbished in 2015. It was packed and it was obvious many of the patrons were regulars from the way they were dressed up and singing along to the old standards.
It is beginning to feel a lot like Christmas. The street decorations are all up and St Katherines dock is sparkling. We celebrate Thanksgiving onboard, just us two. Brian is starting some major boat work, involving taking out walls. Not a boat I want to share with guests. But more on that in the next installment.
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