London Diaries #1
Helacious arriving at our winter home. Thank you Michal for the image.
The North Sea crossing from Ijmuiden, Netherlands to the UK was fast and busy. No napping on this 165nm passage, what with the oil rigs, wind farms, fishing boats and lots of ship traffic. The wind was perfect, a steady 15-25kt aft of the beam. We arrived in Stangate Creek, at the mouth of the Medway River, mid-morning. We caught up on sleep and got things ready for the ride up the Thames the following day. The timing was all about the tide. Ebb tide was over at 6.45am, so we left the anchorage at 6.30am, using the last of the tide to get out of the Medway and into the Thames estuary. Then we had the flood tide in our favor, all the way into the center of London.
Leaving Stangate Creek, the cranes on the Isle of Grain were lit up like Christmas trees.
The majority of the trip was not particularly scenic. Marshes that had not changed since the time of Dickens. Industrial quays with huge cranes and conveyors.
Marshes along the Thames estuary.
There was only one bridge to pass under, fortunately with plenty of clearance. And then, around the bend, the City appeared just as we were approaching the Thames Barrier. We had to call the Barrier on the VHF radio to obtain permission to pass, which was immediately granted.
Now the scenery got a lot more interesting, along with the river boat traffic. The Uber boats and ferries sped by, their huge wakes leaving us bouncing around. First we passed the Docklands development and the huge O2 arena.
Then we went by Greenwich. Many memories here. We almost caught the moment when Helacious passed from the Eastern hemisphere to the Western at the Prime Meridian, but we were distracted.
Royal Naval College, Greenwich.
The incredible development of Canary Wharf, both towering skyscrapers and the old dockland buildings repurposed as very desirable residences.
The City, and just around the next bend…….
Tower Bridge, our destination.
We had timed our arrival perfectly. It was close to Spring tides, and due to high water the lock into St Katharine’s Docks had limited opening times. The marina gave us a window of 90 minutes to get in, and we nailed it.
Helacious locking in to the marina. The neighborhood is not too shabby!
Upon arrival, boat maintenance was a priority; washing and drying the sails, then packing them up for storage. Cleaning and painting the anchor chain where the galvanizing had started to break down and rust - the chain is only a year old ! We got travel passes sorted, found hair dressers and offices for doctor and dentists and also joined a gym to try and stay in shape while staying put in one place. There was still time to explore the immediate neighborhood.
After a week it was time to go on an adventure. The bus is the best way to see the neighborhoods and get orientated. We started at Paddington Station and walked along Regents canal through Little Venice.
The canal leads to St Johns Wood where the houses are definitely more upmarket, after which we climbed up Primrose Hill for a view over London.
View from our lunch spot on Primrose Hill.
Walking back down and through Regents Park to Marylebone, we passed by the impressive St James Church, squeezed in by development all around. We visited Daunt Books, great for travel books, and the fine art in the Wallace Collection.
On a Saturday morning we were invited by neighbors to go for a walk in the neighborhood to our east, Wapping, which is the start of the docklands. We walked along the remnants of old canals and turning basins that made up the old London docks which had opened in 1805, and in its heyday had room for over 300 ships. The protected waters meant that once the ships were in the docks they could be unloaded and loaded in a secure space, without consideration of tides and the pirates that plied the Thames. The whole area covered 90 acres and was surrounded by a wall for security, with many multi-story warehouses that could store the goods. These warehouses are now converted into very ritzy and pricey apartments. The names, Gunnery Wharf, Ivory House, Spirit Quay and Tobacco Dock tell of times past.
We watched the weekend water polo match being played in the Shadwell turning basin. The Thames Walk passed by a number of stone stairs that have allowed access to the Thames shoreline for centuries, names like Alderman’s Stairs and Executioners Dock. The waterside pubs along here are also quite historical, The Prospect of Whitby, Captain Kidd, and The Town of Ramsgate. The latter, established in 1600’s, has large cellars where those unfortunate enough to be caught by the Press Gangs were held before being sent off to sea. Also miscreants and criminals were often kept there, prior to starting their long journey to Australia.
One of the pleasures of this part of London are the many markets that exist: Borough Market, Spitalfields Market, Brick Lane Market and Camden Lock Market to name just a few. In the past they sold produce, which shifted to household goods and clothing. These days they are more often a source of vintage items, a foodies paradise and great street food. On our walk we stumbled across a small market, Wapping Docklands Market, seemingly only attended by local families. The bread and cheese was the same sold at the more famous Borough Market, but without the crowds. We enjoyed a food truck lunch with live music then wandered back home.
Another day out took us to north London and we explored the Highgate area. The walk along a trail developed from a disused rail line took us to the heart of Highgate. The famous cemetery and the quirky Holly Village were interesting to see.
We have settled into our new home. We are looking forward to exploring more with our upcoming guests and celebrating Christmas in London. Visitors beware!!
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