Newfoundland revealed.
Helacious in La Hune Bay.
The constant fog we had experienced so far was wearing. Sensory deprivation, no colors, no scenery. We decided to see if inland the weather was better. White Bear Bay is one of the longer fjords along this coast so we took Helacious up there. It worked! As we started the 7 mile journey into the fjord the fog thinned and the many waterfalls, no doubt engorged by the recent rains, came into view.
We anchored near the head of the bay, just past Blow Me Down Point. There were a few cabins here as the cliffs gave way to rolling hills.
We took the dinghy to the head of the fjord where it transitioned into a river. We spied a family of otters fishing- successfully pulling trout from the water one after another, then eating them on the bank. We followed for quite a while as they stayed just ahead of us, always watching to make sure we did not get too close.
The following day we decided to try and catch some of those trout. We returned to the same spot but had no luck. We met a boat of local Newfoundlanders who were just returning from fly fishing for salmon further up the river. As they left us their outboard failed to start. We ended up towing them the 2 miles back to the cabin with our little electric motor. It did surprisingly well.
After chatting to Mary and Henry, and their guests Joy and Bill, we were invited back in the afternoon to go for a hike on their trail up to the hills behind the cabin. This was wonderful as most everywhere we have been the undergrowth is impenetrable right from the waters edge. We followed the mossy trail over a stream, up through the woodland and out to the top of the hill. The views up and down White Bear Bay were spectacular. The black flies were fierce. Brian broke out the head net. Unfortunately I did not, thinking I was protected with my hood and cap; I suffered the next few days with welts on every bit of exposed skin.
From the peak we looked back to the interior of Newfoundland. It rolls on for over 100 miles before reaching a road. It was incredible to think of so much wilderness. As we scanned the hillside we saw a large male caribou browsing on vegetation and wandering in our direction. It was a fantastic 20 minutes or so before we were spotted and he turned tail and trotted off.
Back down at Henry and Mary’s cabin we sat around the fire pit and were treated to drinks chilled with iceberg ice. Bill had collected some growlers near his home on the east coast of Newfoundland. 12,000 year old freshwater ice from the glaciers of Greenland! As the ice crackled and popped in our glasses we learned about Henry and Mary’s second career as hunting guides, taking folk from all over the world into the back country to hunt for Moose, Caribou and Bear. It was a perfect day, thank you so much.
The following day we pulled up the anchor and headed eastwards down the coast. La Hune Bay was described as a “not to be missed” anchorage in our cruising guide. Of course we would not want to bypass such a spot.
The huge towering smooth slabs of pink granite, the waterfall cascading down, the lush green pasture, and the sunshine. This was perfect.
The following afternoon the wind began to pick up and our anchor began to drag. The holding in gravel was not sufficient to be comfortable overnight. We pulled up and took a very sporty trip around the headland to a different cove. Here we were sheltered from the winds, but unfortunately not the swell and we had a very rolly night. We moved on. Our next stop was a small outport called Francois (pronounced Fransway) nestled at the head of the bay at the base of some impressive cliffs.
The visitors pontoon, although plenty long for at least 6 boats, was fully occupied by two visiting yachts and a few local rowing boats, tied tightly and permanently in the middle and a chain securing the pontoon taking up the last available space. It is as if they did not want visitors. We moved over and rafted to a fishing boat on the commercial dock.
The following day rain cleared off and we went for a look around. The yards were creatively decorated and the maze of boardwalks weaving between the houses were extensive. Then a hike up and around the cliff tops, and over “The Friar’.
After buying a few supplies (milk, bread and some limp green onions) at Sharons Place grocery store we left to head for Devils Bay. On the way we were doing a little fishing for cod when this sunfish floated by.
The entrance to Devils Bay is guarded by an impressive rock. Blow Me Down Cliff ( a different One from White Bear) is on the list of rock climbing destinations. We passed on that opportunity and anchored at the head of the bay.
The next couple of days we soaked up the sun and enjoyed the results of Brians fishing trips. We smoked some of the mackerel he caught, delicious. The shy Loons who lived at the head of the bay were chased by Brian and his camera, with great results.
Our next stop was yet another “not to be missed” anchorage. Hare Bay has a very narrow entrance between towering cliffs scattered with waterfalls, then opens up to a large bay with two arms. We anchored in the northwest arm. That evening we enjoyed the sunset, the first we have seen for a while as usually our view of the western horizon is obscured by cliffs.
Sunset in Hare Bay. Below we woke up to fog, but it lifted after a couple of hours to blue skies.
We took Dingbat (the dinghy) on a long trip to the northern arm of Hare Bay. Here there was a waterfall…. not to be missed! The scenery as we puttered along was dramatic in its grandeur. The second photo has a yacht in it, so the scale of these cliffs can be appreciated.
Securing Dingbat at the base of the cascading waterfall, we clambered along the waters edge and climbed up the slab like rocks to view the falls. They were indeed, spectacular. And the volume of water!!
Despite the now outgoing tide against us, and the contrary wind, we managed to return the 5 miles to Helacious with the electric outboard, 25% left on the battery. It really is quite good. I must admit I was relieved, I had not wanted to resort to rowing the dinghy. The next few days were gusty then drizzly and overcast, good days to do some home repairs and laundry. Supplies were running low. We had to leave Canada.