London Diaries #4
The Palace of Westminster.
The new year started off cold. When the sun came out we explored the streets and parks. When it rained we checked out the museums. There was really no excuse to stay onboard.
Helacious tucked into her berth in the central basin at St Katherines Docks on a nice sunny day.
We discovered the lovely Thames path along the north shore of the Thames. Less well advertised than the South Bank walkway, it stayed close to the water and the views were great.
The fishy theme of the cast iron street lamps, windvane and gateway on the old Billingsgate Fishmarket building were a delight to spot. The well crafted mosaic depicting the history of the Thames form 43BC to present times was a treat.
Our Ocean Cruising Club friend Nick introduced us to the Little Ship Club, a yacht club in the center of London. We went along for dinner one night and agreed to give a presentation before we leave London. We have the slides all prepared from our online talk to the OCC just before Christmas, so it should not be too much work. Maybe membership will be forthcoming? That would be fine.
Temple Church.
Hidden between the buildings of Fleet Street and the Thames is Temple Church, a unique and ancient church built and established by the Knights Templar in the 11th century. The Round Church was built to resemble the Church of the Holy Sepulchre built over the tomb of Jesus in Jerusalem. The Knights Templar were protecting Christian pilgrims during the bloody Crusades in the Holy Land. This church in London was considered the holiest site in Britain. The incredible history continued into the next century when William Marshall, the First Earl of Pembroke (1142-1219), “possibly the Greatest Knight that ever lived”, was instrumental in persuading King John I to sign the Magna Carta (1215), the first great bill of rights and establishment of fair law. We saw one of the originals in Salisbury Cathedral (London Diaries #1). Marshall then continued to protect and promote it when acting as regent to the boy king Henry III, and also after leading the defeat of the French in 1217. His effigy lies in the floor of the Round next to his son, one of the Barons of Runnymeade who were tasked with making sure King John followed the new laws.
The rest of the church was lovely with the soaring gothic arches, organ and beautiful stained glass. Although modern, having been commissioned to replace the windows destroyed during the Blitz of Second World War, they incorporate medieval glass, the vibrant colors which apparently can no longer be reproduced. Half way up the stairs to the rotunda was a small room too small to lie down in, the pentiential cell, used to punish wayward knights.
The history continued; In 1608 King James I gave the Temple to two of the four “Inns of Court”, London’s ancient legal colleges, on the condition they use it for the education and accommodation of lawyers. Since then Inner and Middle Temple have been maintaining the church and the association of lawyers with the Knights of the Temple became established. The Declaration of Independence and the American Constitution both have members of the Temple as signatories.
It seems every time we have visited London over the years, scaffolding was covering Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. Not this year. The sun was shining that warm winter afternoon glow and Big Ben was dazzling after a multi-year makeover.
Walking the backstreets behind Westminster Abbey we discover the rows of exclusive Georgian townhouses, residences of the wealthier government officials and people of note. The faded sign indicating where the air raid shelters were located was painted right on someone’s wall. Sometimes, when visiting a big city, you just have to be a tourist. We did that, checking out the horse guards and the original Scotland Yard.
Another day was sunny but cold, too good to waste. We went for a dip into the Victoria and Albert museum, Islamic textiles and the photography section, then a nice walk around South Kensington in the late afternoon sun.
A frosty day in Kensington.
Visitors onboard; Helen’s Mum and cousin Margaret came for lunch bearlng gifts for Helacious. Thanks so much Margaret, see you in Ramsgate! Also, Rachel and Rob, cruisers we first met in Grenada over a year ago, were passing through London before heading back to their boat Aegle. Paths of cruisers frequently cross, the timing of passages and crossing oceans is seasonal, so we are often planning months ahead, and with similar goals for late 2025 and 2026, we are likely to see these folk again.
Making the most of our Tower Hamlets residency status, we score £1 tickets to tour the inner workings of Tower Bridge.
The view from the top walkway looking NW toward The City.
View looking east and Canary Wharf. St Katharine Docks entrance lock is to the left, a boat is locking in.
The glass floor up in Tower Bridge was surprisingly hard to walk along!
The engine rooms below with huge boilers, steam pump engines and hydraulic pumps working to raise enormous accumulators were impressive. The ingenuity of the system, providing the power to raise the bridge arms at short notice was impressive. In the early days when commerce on the Thames was much busier, sailing ships passed through over 25 times a day; it had to be ready to open, and quickly, so as not to hold up traffic on the bridge.
More boat jobs keep Brian busy. A new shelf for storage boxes so they can be strapped securely while underway. A new hydronic heating system installed. The Eberspächer system was gifted to us by Hilary, unfortunately no longer a boat owner so she had no need for it. With a little TLC it was encouraged into life, and now we have not only a backup heating system, but one we can safely use while underway.
Scenes from our various walks up and down the Thames; the remains of a platform that the barges would rest on while they were loaded and unloaded, an ornate store front for an old business dealing in hops and Shakespeare’s Globe Theater from across the water. A sphinx and of course, Westminster.
One day our destination was the Imperial War Museum.
This museum was established after the First World War, ‘the war to end all wars”. The displays continued with the Second World War and Holocaust, and on to the cold war. Oh how little we have learned. It was an extensive collection and very well exhibited. A pleasant change as it feels many museums have been “dumbed down'“.
A day making marmalade to begin the process of restocking our supplies. Thanks for the opportunity, Mum! We are checking off boxes, ordering new treats for us and Helacious. A new wind generator will soon grace our back arch and a new kettle, especially ordered from USA to keep us supplied in tea. Our old one stopped working, and next to the induction cooktop, it is the most utilized electrical item on the boat. A galley essential.
Another day we stumbled upon Leadenhall market. Now full of wine bars and upmarket shops catering to city gents, it used to be the London poultry market. Hooks lining the walls are still evident. A small toy museum had displays that looked all too familiar. What, me? Getting old??
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