Dominica waterfalls
We returned to Dominica, one of our favorite islands due to the wonderful unspoilt natural interior. You can see from the photo above why it was used extensively in Pirates of the Caribbean. The island is filled with rivers, streams and waterfalls and the most dramatic forested landscape. Dan and Lori from BeBe were also in the Portsmouth anchorage and we planned a couple of outings with them along with Courtney and Dave from Umoya. We had chatted to Umoya during our November passage from Chesapeake Bay down to the islands. We had talked on the radio, and exchanged a few texts until our Starlink dish decided to quit. They had then got quite concerned about our abrupt silence, but fortunately our other satellite communications with mutual friends BeBe explained the situation. Here in Dominica, we finally all met up.
Our first outing was an afternoon walk up to Fort Shirley overlooking Portsmouth and Prince Rupert Bay. The fort is on a peninsula to the north of the bay and a hike up through the forest leads past the ruins of the Governors mansion. It must have been quite a building in its heyday, the grand rooms and vaulted arches told of considerable elegance. Now, however it was a battle between the jungle vines and gravity as to which would bring it down first.
A couple of days later we arranged for Serge, a local driver and guide, to take us all up to the trail head for a visit to Chaudiere Pools. We got dropped off and hiked 40 minutes down the track to the river. Here we lounged, swam, jumped and enjoyed the fresh water for a couple of hours. The plunge of the waterfall created champagne bubbles, it was delightful.
A couple of days later our friends had left and we hired Serge again to take us on a tour toward the south of the island. Here we explored Freshwater Lake, high in the rainforest, with a lovely trail around it. Serge was very knowledgeable about the flora and also shared with us his recipe for the tea that he drinks daily. It involves fresh ginger, tumeric, citrus peel, cloves and some unfamiliar-to-us leaf. It certainly seemed to have worked, he was edging up to 70 years old and appeared fit as a fiddle.
After the hike we drove over to Trafalger Falls. On the way we passed by the massive construction site for the proposed Trafalger Falls and Boiling Lake gondola. Helicopters were carrying all the building supplies to the jungle interior, constructing towers for the eventual lift system. The scar through the hillside was upsetting to us, but for Serge it indicated progress and riches to come. We still treasure the memories of our epic hike to Boiling Lake 3 years ago. The idea of trams clunking and grinding overhead and across the Valley of Desolation does not feel like an improvement to us.
Moving on to Trafalger Falls. This is a popular tourist spot, the dramatic twin waterfalls are fed by two separate rivers and merge at this point. The added attraction are the hot springs that line the edge of the falls, the yellow sulforus deposit indicated where the very hot water feeds in to the rivers flow. You find a point where the temperature of the waters mixing is to your taste, and just sit and enjoy.
Time seemed to pass by quite quickly. Before we knew it we had been there almost 2 weeks. Our friends on Skylark arrived and we caught up on the news over sundowners. We enjoyed an evening at the local beach BBQ, a final trip to the wonderful vegetable market and then it was time to move on. We sailed north to Antigua, leaving Dominica under a rather gloomy sky. However the changing weather made for a great sunset that night.
